Part of Criccieth’s charm lies in the fact it is a hidden gem, lying between the busy town of Porthmaddog on one side and Pwllheli, of holiday camp fame, on the other. Yet it is an ideal base from which to explore this most beautiful of areas, with many interesting attractions within easy reach. There is also a railway line running the length of the Cambrian Coast, allowing visitors to leave the car behind.
Criccieth itself has everything one needs for a British holiday. The small town is charming with one long main street lined with individual shops and good quality restaurants. There are no supermarket chains or greasy cafes here, yet it is not too upmarket either. Friendly and tasteful is perhaps a good description.
Eating Out in Criccieth
The main street slopes down towards the sea front, past another two excellent restaurants. Eating out is never a problem. The only decision is which place to try each evening. No UK seaside town is complete without the great British fish and chips. Criccieth’s shop on Castle Street is exceptional value, not only for its reasonable cost, but for its quality. This fish tastes of the sea and is thick and delicious with a thin, crispy batter.
To finish the alfresco meal, the famous Cadwalader’s ice cream shop is conveniently on the same street. It is now so popular that the Criccieth shop has expanded to accommodate seating. Tea, coffee and cakes are available alongside an impressive variety of cones, ice cream sundaes and smoothies.
Exploring Criccieth
The sea front promenade curves around a sweeping shingle shore and bay, although the shingle gradually gives way to soft sand at the water’s edge. At the foot of the main street, a life boat station reminds visitors that the sea is not always a safe haven for swimmers. The building also boasts a shop to boost the much-needed funds for such a necessary service.
In the centre of Criccieth, on the way down to the sea front, a level crossing still operates when trains are due along the Cambrian coast. It too adds to the old-fashioned ambience of the delightful town. Near the crossing is one of the prettiest, ivy-clad tearooms.
There are no cinemas, nightclubs, or amusement arcades in Criccieth, but there is often a play or local performance at the little community centre. These are usually in English, for many people who settle here are from outside of Wales. But it is apparent that Welsh is the preferred language of locals. People are friendly and just as easily slip into English when required.
Visitors might spend all their time in the town without realising thereis another beach and sea front. Award-winning Marine Beach is on the other side of Criccieth Castle and is a haven for wildlife. There is not so much of a promenade on this side but it is generally less busy.
Criccieth Castle
As Castle Street suggests, there is indeed a castle in Criccieth and although it is now mainly a ruin it is still an impressive landmark. It is the first thing visitors see on arrival in the resort. The castle sits on a craggy headland effectively dividing the two sides of Criccieth from each other.
It is well worth the gentle climb for the excellent views over both sides of the town. As an added attraction, the 13th century castle now has a good display area with the fascinating story of Gerald of Wales who travelled around the country with the Archbishop to try and drum up support for the Crusades. Adults as well as children can enjoy the cartoon version of the story on a video screen which enhances the exhibition.
Attractions Near Criccieth
If the sea air and healthy walks begin to bore, the eccentric and interesting Portmeirion Italianate Village is only a short car ride away from Criccieth. Down the coast is Harlech, a beautiful little town with its own magnificent castle which can be reached by car or by a leisurely ride on the local railway. There is, however, a very steep hill to reach the town from the station.
Further along the coast, Porthmadog is a bustling, busy town with a picturesque harbour. This is the starting point for the famous Ffestiniog Railway. Steam train fans won’t want to miss an opportunity to take a trip back in time to the sound of the whistle and the romance of enveloping steam. It is well worth the journey, up through lush Welsh hills, past waterfalls and bridges and old-fashioned railway stations.
Also worth a visit is the pretty village of Beddgelert, where the legend of the loyal dog is remembered with its own grave. Even though there is some doubt as to whether the dog is in fact buried there, it is a pleasant walk to find it. Betws-y-Coed and the famous Swallow Falls is another stopping point for tourists, evident by the number of cars and buses in the car park.
Criccieth is an ideal holiday resort for families not wishing to travel abroad and it offers everything the visitor could need, apart from guaranteed sunshine.
Rosemary Gemmell - Professional freelance writer of published short stories and articles in the UK, US and online. Author of historical romance and ...
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