A Benedictine Abbey was founded by Queen Margaret on the site in the 11th century but all that remains are the foundations under the nave of what is now called the ‘Old Church’, which was built in the 12th century. Adjoining the original church is the 19th century Abbey Church which is still used for services today.
The Old Church at Dunfermline, Scotland
Dedicated in 1147, little remains inside the old church apart from its massive pillars, beautiful stained-glass windows and the ‘Old Nave’, although there is some fine carving around the outside of the south door. Of the five pillars on the left and six on the right, one pillar on each side has an interesting chevron pattern. An upper gallery runs the whole length of the building to either side.
One of the stained-glass windows depicts the Coat of Arms of the mother of King James I of Scotland, Queen Anabella Drummond, consort of Robert III. Only a fragment of the great rood, or cross, has survived at the eastern end of the nave, before the entrance to the more modern church. A bronze plaque explains its use.
The Nineteenth Century Abbey Church
There is quite a contrast from the old church to the new, especially in the brightness of the interior. There are many features of historic interest here, as well as stunning stained-glass windows, such as the McLaren Window of 1904 above the pulpit. The lower half of this window depicts the Last Supper.
The Wooden Pulpit and Lectern
One of the most attractive features of this church is the richly carved wood. The pulpit, from 1890, is most striking and the Abbey Guide suggests “it is one of the finest of its kind in Scotland.” It was carved by William Paterson and gifted to the church by the Earl of Elgin and Kincardineshire.
Each of the four Evangelists is carved at one of the corners and is depicted with his personal symbol: Matthew, the Lion of Judah; Mark, the simplest of men; Luke, the ox of sacrifice; John, the eagle of vision. There are individual circles representing the twelve disciples. Other intricate carving depicts the Passion of Christ.
The exquisite lectern was carved by Thomas Good in 1931 and was a direct result of a visit by Queen Mary when she noticed there was no lectern.
The Abbey Organ
The present day organ is an amalgamation of periods. A four-manual organ was built in 1911 and partly incorporated the original 1880s two-manual organ. Then, in 1967, the organ was again rebuilt, reducing it to a three-manual instrument.
The most extensive work was carried out between 1984 and 1986, when the organ was completely removed during structural renovation of the Abbey. The internal layout of the organ was redesigned and refined to a high standard. Containing around 3,000 pipes, it is one of the finest in the country.
King Robert the Bruce
Not only is the name of King Robert the Bruce carved on the four sides of the Abbey tower, his tomb is situated directly beneath the pulpit inside the church. Originally buried in Dunfermline Abbey in 1329, the exact spot was unknown for centuries. In 1818, workmen discovered the vault containing the King’s remains. This was verified when official inspection showed that the breastbone was severed to allow the heart to be taken to the holy land according to the Bruce’s wishes.
The remains were ceremoniously re-interred between the transepts and the magnificent medieval-type brass embedded in marble was made in 1889 to cover the tomb. The translated Latin inscription reads: “The tomb of Robert the Bruce, King of Scots, fortunately discovered among the ruins in 1818, has been anew marked by this brass in the 560th year after his death.”
During the 700th anniversary of his death, in 1974, a new stained glass window, the Bruce Memorial Window, was installed in the north transept and dedicated to the king’s memory.
Marble Monuments and Memorial Chapel
There are several marble monuments to the Bruce family in the south transept, including a General whose illness in the Holy land was tended by the then Prince of Wales, the future Edward VII.
The beautiful Memorial Chapel was set apart in memory of those members who died in action during the two World Wars. Every item placed in the chapel has been donated in memory of someone. The congregation gifted a Royal Pew to the chapel in 1972, especially for Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip when they attended a special service to mark the 900th anniversary of the founding of the Abbey.
There is an impressive list of all the Royals who are buried in Dunfermline Abbey. There are also eight Armorial Banners with full details. Volunteer Guides are usually available and written information is provided at certain points.
The Abbey gift and bookshop has a good selection of souvenirs and information on this beautiful monument of Scottish history. Just across the graveyard, the stunning 15th century Abbot House is also well worth a visit.
Rosemary Gemmell - Professional freelance writer of published short stories and articles in the UK, US and online. Author of historical romance and ...
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