Gdansk is usually mentioned in the news whenever Europe is commemorating a major anniversary of the start of the Second World War, for it was Germany’s invasion of Poland that precipitated this cataclysmic event. Although the majority of its residents were ethnic Germans, the Nazis fired the first shots of the war in Gdansk on September 1, 1939. It was the beginning of the destruction of Poland and eventually led to many years of change.
By the 1970s, rising food prices caused hardship. A series of strikes at the former Lenin shipyards led to a gradual rise against the ruling Communism by workers and intellectuals. By the 1980s, the word Solidarity was synonymous with the name Lech Walesa, as the government was forced to recognise the first independent trade union in this former Soviet Bloc. When Communism collapsed in 1989, the Solidarity leader, Lech Walesa became President of Poland.
Exploring Medieval Gdansk
Today, Gdansk is a beautiful medieval town and quayside welcoming modern tourists to the Baltic. It is easy to walk around the heart of the Old Town’s cobblestone streets, admiring the architecture. At one time Europe’s centre for grain trade, Gdansk’s former wealth was used to erect its magnificent buildings. Although almost completely destroyed during World War II, the city was eventually restored to its present day glory.
The original entrance to the Old Town was through the Renaissance Upland Gate, built in 1576 and inscribed (in Latin) with: ‘Justice and piety are the foundations of all kingdoms’. At one time, the king would pass through this gate before entering the Golden Gate, which dates from 1614 and is adorned with eight stone sculptures.
The main ‘Dluga’ street with shops and cafes on either side stretches down to the impressive Green Gate, which now houses Lech Walesa’s office. In pride of place on this street is the gilded 17th century Neptune Fountain. Behind the fountain is one of the stately houses of the district, Artus Mansion, dating from the 15th to 17th century. There is a good collection of Renaissance furnishings and paintings inside.
Further up the street the Town Hall, which was destroyed during the war, has been reconstructed inside and out to depict its past glory. Inside, the museum covers five centuries of history through paintings, sculptures and weapons.
Churches in Gdansk
Among the many churches in Gdansk is St Mary’s Church on the north side. It is the largest brick church in the world and can accommodate up to 25,000 people. Built in the 14th century, it underwent vast restoration after World War II. For a small fee, visitors can climb the hundreds of steps up the church tower to be rewarded by the magnificent views. A highlight of the church is the 25-foot high astronomical clock.
The oldest church is believed to be St Catherine’s, once the old town’s parish church. Construction began in the 1200s, the tower was added in the 1480s and forty nine bells were added in 1634.
The Cathedral is situated in Oliwa district, north of the city centre. Originally part of a Cistercian monastery, the Cathedral was built during the 13th century, then rebuilt in various styles through the years. A highlight is the impressive rococo organ with more than 6,000 pipes and a mechanism which activates a wooden star and wooden angels ringing bells. There are demonstrations at frequent intervals during summer months.
Other Places of Interest in Gdansk
- The National Museum is situated to the south of the Main Town, inside a former Franciscan monastery. Exhibits range from the 14th century to 20th century art
- The Harbour Crane on the Motlawa river, dating from 1444, medieval Europe’s oldest, largest crane. It houses the Muzeum Morskie, containing models of ships constructed in the famous Gdansk shipyards since 1945
- The Modern Art Museum is situated in a park beside the cathedral in Oliwa and contains a selection of works by Polish artists from the interwar period and beyond
Gdansk Shipyards
Situated at the north of the town, the former Lenin Shipyards were the birthplace of the Solidarity movement. Three huge crosses stand constantly draped with flowers outside the gates, one of the monuments to the long struggle against Communism.
Other plaques commemorate the fight and there is a poignant quotation by Pope John Paul II after he visited the monument in 1987:
“The grace of God could not have created anything better; in this place, silence is a scream.”
Aside from the war and the fight against Communism, Gdansk is most famous for its amber jewellery. Many workshops in the Old Town show it being made and it is an ideal souvenir of Gdansk, available to buy all around the town and along by the river.
The currency is the Polish Zloty, although most shops and restaurants accept major credit cards. Some also accept Euro or US Dollars.
BNC101
Rosemary Gemmell - Professional freelance writer of published short stories and articles in the UK, US and online. Author of historical romance and ...
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