Ten minutes by ferry from Largs on the North Ayrshire coast, Millport is still popular today. The name Cumbrae is thought to be derived from the Gaelic ‘cumbray’ meaning shelter and refuge. An apt description, as it is like taking a step back to a gentler pace of life.
It has always been an island for cyclists, although more cars are now brought across on the ferry. For visitors without car or bicycle, a bus waits at the slipway to convey passengers the fifteen minutes into Millport.
Cycling on Millport
Cumbrae still attracts cyclists and the bicycles come in all sizes including an adult sized bicycle with a buggy attached to the back for little ones. Hire shops in Millport offer cycle hire for one hour, one day, one week or longer.
The island is just over ten miles around the coastal road, although it twists and turns which makes it seem longer.
Crocodile Rock
There are many interesting sights around the island. Setting off towards the sandy beach of Kames Bay leads to one of the island’s famous hand-painted rocks, Crocodile Rock. With its white jagged snapping teeth outlined with a red mouth, red tongue and painted eye, it is a fearsome sight.
Millport Marine Museum and Biological Centre
A little further on, around Farland Point, is the Marine Museum and Biological Centre with links to the University of Glasgow. Opened in 1897, it was Scotland’s first marine station with a museum collection. It now has an aquarium and provides excellent information about the surrounding marine life.
Of added interest is a reconstruction of the interior of the first marine laboratory on the west coast of Scotland: ‘The Ark’. This wooden boat was beached by Sir John Murray in 1885 at Port Loy. Open all year, the centre provides an interesting picture of plant and animal life around the Clyde.
Lion Rock
A few miles on is the famous Lion Rock. Legend says this was created by bad elves who tried to copy a bridge the good elves were making. When they failed, they kicked the rock in frustration and made the visible holes. The resulting ‘lion’ was so frightening, it has kept elves away from this side of the island ever since. Or the light grey lion shape might be all that remains of an old sea dyke continually battered by the elements.
National Sailing Centre
Towards the ferry slipway, the National Sailing Centre is across the road from the river on which training takes place. All kinds of water sports are enjoyed and they offer residential courses with accommodation and meals. Free sailing sessions are often available at their Open Day demonstrations in July.
Tormont End to Skate Point
At the northern tip of the island is Tormont End, where a monument stands to the two young shipmen from the HMS Shearwater who drowned near here in 1844.
To the west of the island is an area that was prominent during World War II. The former ‘hush hush’ used to house a ‘loop detection’ system for anti u-boat defence, with guns mounted on the roof.
At Skate Point, a metal hoop anchored to the rocks is all that remains of a metal net curtain that once stretched across to Bute to stop u-boats from reaching the upper Clyde. A gate in the middle allowed ships to pass.
Further on, is the impressive painted Indian’s Face on the red sandstone cliffs near Bell Bay.
Fintry Bay and the Targets
From Fintry Bay there is an incline towards the final part of the journey. Past Deadman’s Bay, are the ‘targets’, the longest straight stretch of road on the island. It was used for target practice by the Bute Mountain Battery before World War I.
The Cathedral of the Isles
Hidden among trees just behind the town, is the Cathedral of the Isles. The smallest cathedral in Europe, it is an early masterpiece of architect William Butterfield, dating from 1851.
It has a restored tracker action organ, Lipp boudoir grand piano and a ‘Cumbrae’ harpsichord. The Cathedral Music Resources Fund ensures the continuation of music at the cathedral. A retiring collection is taken after concerts performed on summer Sunday afternoons. Bed and breakfast is available in the attached college.
Millport Town
Millport is a small Victorian seaside town, a safe and sheltered haven warmed by the Gulf Stream. The main street shops, cafes and cycle hire vie for trade as in the past, across from the harbour, beach and sea.
As an alternative to cycling round the island, there are short walks around the centre and coast. The highest point of the island, the Glaidstone, is 417 feet above sea level, where Ben Lomond can be seen to the north and Ailsa Craig to the south.
There is an abundance of wildlife on peaceful Cumbrae, from sea birds and owls to buzzards and kestrels, a winter seal colony, wild flowers and ferns. So near the mainland, yet a world apart.
The Millport website offers further information and accommodation details.
Rosemary Gemmell - Professional freelance writer of published short stories and articles in the UK, US and online. Author of historical romance and ...
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