The French Riviera

Exploring Nice and Provence on the Cote d'Azur

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Nice on the French Riviera - Rosemary Gemmell
Nice on the French Riviera - Rosemary Gemmell
Mention the French Riviera and most people think of Cannes, with its world-famous film festival. However, adjacent Nice is an ideal holiday resort in the South of France.

Nice is a beach-lover’s dream. Miles and miles of sea and pebble beach beckon the weary traveller who wants to lie and worship the sun. When that begins to bore, the cool blue water is a constant invitation to swim or paddle.

Running alongside the endless beach is the 3 mile-long, wide Promenade des Anglais. Built in the 1820s, visitors and locals alike can jog, skate, cycle, or meander aimlessly under the Mediterranean sun. Seats and benches are plentiful along the whole stretch, for those who would rather sit and watch life go by.

Nice Main Town and Old Town

Nice is France’s largest tourist resort and has two distinct areas. The main town is busy and modern with an abundance of galleries, museums and elegant shops. The fashionable Cimiez district overlooks the town and is worth a visit for the old monastery of Notre Dame and the Musée Matisse. As well as the painter’s work, the museum has a photographic collection that depicts Matisse’s life and art.

The old town of Nice is an attractive area of pedestrian-friendly alleys, 17th century churches and narrow buildings intriguingly painted in Italianate pastel colours. Adding to the colour and atmosphere is a busy vegetable and flower market, bordered with cafes and restaurants spilling onto the pavements. At night, the old town is even more atmospheric, with subtle lighting, lively conversation and excellent French cuisine.

The seafront walkway of the old town is called the Quai des Etats-Unis which ends beneath the hill known as the Chateau, where a castle once stood. Spectacularly lit up at night, the Chateau hill now incorporates the four-star Hotel La Perouse into its cliff face. There are stunning views of Nice and the Baie des Anges (Bay of Angels) from its roof top garden. There is also a steep public pathway from the foot of the hill leading to the hill-top viewpoint.

The Quai des Etats-Unis promenade eventually joins the Promenade des Anglais to make one long, wide walkway from east to west of Nice. For those who tire of walking the many miles, a tourist tram takes visitors along the front, past the market, the old town and castle gardens.

Exploring Provence in the South of France by the Train des Pignes

Another option is to explore the countryside of Provence by the little train, the Train des Pignes. Built between 1891 and 1911, day trips are available by diesel train on the narrow gauge railway running from Nice to Digne-les-Bains, a Roman spa town with seven hot springs. The complete train ride takes about three hours. During the summer months, a highlight is to travel by steam train for part of the journey.

Passengers are allowed to stop en route and catch another train back. As well as Digne-les-Bains and the pretty villages on the single-track journey, one place that is definitely worth a visit is the ancient walled town of Entrevaux. Entrance to this fairytale town is across the drawbridge and through the medieval gatehouse, Porte Royale. Full of narrow alleyways, cobbled streets and small shops, it is a step back in time to medieval France. The quiet streets come alive in August during the annual 16th century music festival.

Rising above the walled town is the Citadel, reached by a steep cobblestone walkway. Perched on a rocky outcrop, the citadel sits 440 feet above the village and is a good twenty minute walk for those energetic enough to attempt it. Not recommended in the midday sun.

A vibrant, cosmopolitan holiday destination in the South of France, there is always plenty to see and do around Nice. However, the town is also convenient for visiting Villefranche and Monte Carlo, a little further along the coast of the French Riviera.

Rosemary Gemmell, Simon Gemmell

Rosemary Gemmell - Professional freelance writer of published short stories and articles in the UK, US and online. Author of historical romance and ...

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